If you can see this, I have moved to new hosting for this website. Full writeup coming later, given all the agonising I did about this: tl;dr version is “wordpress, with tsohost.co.uk, plus a bunch of static stuff”. Also: DNS is hassle, hosting is hassle, converting fifteen old versions of documents to something modern is hassle, and I am glad it is now done.
Now is when you all complain about the theme (as is traditional), but I like it. More importantly: advise me, O Internet, on WordPress plugins that I should be running.